By definition, a vintage watch would be a piece with more than 25 years of life, which implies at least 25 years of use, maintenance and care.

You know that story that if the diver’s display shows that it can withstand depths of 150 meters, I can actually go a little deeper than that? Well, in the case of vintage, the story is not quite like that…

There are at least 25 springs of the material responsible for sealing the case - and here we must remember that the rubbers are only part of the equation responsible for the hermetic factor of your watch. This material has suffered from wear, accumulation of dirt, lack of maintenance, among others and that is why the first - and main - rule is: ASSUME THAT YOUR VINTAGE WATCH IS NOT WATERPROOF , be it a 32mm dress watch with a non-screwed back cover or a diver with a resistance of 600m with the COMEX logo on the dial.

So, rule number 1 - keep your vintage watch away from moisture in general.

Another very important point is regarding the numbers that a vintage piece displays on the timegraph, which will not be the same as those of a brand new watch. What does this mean? That maintenance has been neglected? That the watchmaker who overhauled the mechanism is not good enough? Of course not! What they indicate is that the caliber has a certain age and accumulates the wear and tear that years of “work from dawn to dusk” have caused - and this is more or less what happens with a car with 300,000 km when compared to the same model fresh from the factory: it works perfectly, yes, and very well, but it will never be a brand new car unless it is completely rebuilt.

Maintaining a vintage watch is no different from maintaining a modern watch: it needs to be done at regular intervals and by a qualified professional, but it requires more care when handling it. Avoid starting the adjustment with the calendar, make sure you are adjusting the calendar outside the 10:00 p.m. to 4:00 a.m. window, avoid resetting the chronograph (if equipped) with other hands in the way of the complication seconds hand, handle the crown with more care, do not set the time by moving the hands counterclockwise… among many other tips.

Treat your beloved “old man” with the care and affection it deserves and have a watch that will last for the next 25 years! One of the main advantages of a vintage watch over a modern watch is the feeling of getting more value for your money - make every penny count!

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By Henrique Moraes (@henritd)